Wednesday 4/13/2011

Went back to River Jetties for the morning session.  South wind was blowing, didn't think there would be a crowd, but there was.  Waves were fun though, gray and gloomy but some fun ones.  Surfed on south end of the rivermouth, right at edge of crowd.  Had a really good time.  Wouldn't ya know, crowd thinned out and skies cleared, got really good, clean.  Didn't surf too good though, only a few

Tuesday 4/5/2011

Good waves today.  Surded River jetties in the morning, about 9:30.  Sunny and REALLY CROWDED.  Waves were good here, definitely the call, and people knew about it.  So many pros, shoulder to shoulder in front of the river.  Head high peaks, punchy, really fun.  Crowd thinned out as session went on, so I stayed out for quite a while.  Got some fun ones, nothing great, but a good day over all.

Monday 4/4/2011

Really bad day of surf.  Worked so hard all day studying for my advancement, came home and just wanted to blow off some steam.  Waves didn't look good, but not bad either.  Went to Southside at around 5 PM b.c tide was kinda high.  Just wasn't good at all, really windswelly, peaks that didn't hold up.  Got like one decent wave...that's it.

Sunday 4/3/2011

Snuck out there for a few waves on a Sunday afternoon.  It was windy, but Cam was sleeping and I was pumped to get  acouple.  North wind so went to Southside. It was actually kinda fun but my stomach was soooo messed up.  I was really nauseous. Not many people out but some really nice chest-head waves coming through.  Got a few fun ones but had to go in after 45 minutes to poop....ha ha.

Friday 4/1/2011

Really good waves today. Worked all morning, went to a bunch of meetings and got a lot done. Saw on the cams it was still clean, so bailed and got in the water just after 2 PM. So clean, surfed out front. HOt day, beach was packed, but not many people surfing. Kinda solid, head high, peaky lines.  Paddled out at dead low tide, which was nice cause it was still a little mushy, so it made it stand up a bit. Got some really fun rights and lefts.  Water was soooo warm, gotta be 5 degrees warmer than yesterday.  All in all, great success, so lucky to have such great conditions on an afternoon with hardly anyone out.

Thursday 3/31/2011

Went back to River Jetties, this time a little later than yesterday.  Tide was high so I went and got a cup of coffee, fired off a few emails after I dropped Cam off. Really beautiful day, just so sunny and hot.  Parking was tough but I got lucky (pass was in Dianna's car).  So clean, smaller than yesterday, but still peaky and fun with chest high sets. Started off in front of the river, drifted south towards 54th, then paddled back to the river again.  Got a bunch of pretty darn fun rights, kinda felt it on a few, but couldn't go left to save my life. Surfed for quite a while...fun day. Kinda crowded, but lots of room around me for some reason.

Wednesday 3/30/2011

Surfed River Jetties this morning.  Didn't feel too dirty, but it did rain a few days ago, oh well let's hope for the best.  Surf was super clean, peaky ,mostly from the W.  Looked OK from bridge and not crowded at all so I gave it a try.  Was cloudy when I paddled out with only 1 other guy in front of the river...much larger crowd @ north jetty.  Turned out to be pretty fun but hard to find the good ones, about chest high on sets.  The local brunch club paddled out and crowded things a bit...about 8 50+ year olds that surfed surprisingly well, you could tell that this has been their spot since about 1970, kinda aggressive and kinda annoying. Didn't ruin my fun, though. Ended up being a beautiful sunny, wish I coulda stayed out longer.

Monday 3/28/11

Cam was home with me today so I was pumped to go out when Dianna got home.  Waves were small all day, honestly didn't look that good.  Ended up paddling out on Southside around 5:30.  Tide was high so it was doing a little inside wedge thing, but only thigh-waist high. Expectations were low, but ended up getting a few really fun rights. Got cleaner as the session went on and turned out to be a really nice evening & sunset.  Didn't surf too well, but still had some fun ones.

Saturday 3/26/2011

Surf was big.  Surfed in the afternoon around 4:30 PM.  The wind was actually lying down a bit when I got out there, and it was a lot bigger than I thought.  Just a lot of water moving.  Way overhead. The lefts were better than the rights and I honestly didn't know if my fins would hold on some of them.  Surfed northside of the pier with hardly anyone out.  Ended up getting a few really fun ones.  Stayed out for quite a while, maybe 2 hours.  Board got ripped out of my hands on some of the duck-dives.

Wednesday 3/23/2011

surfed river jetties just before noon.  Really nice day, warmer than it has been. Waves looked fun, peaky, still kinda clean but wind was starting to blow. Wasn't planning on surfing but couldn't pass it up. Haven't surfed this spot in a while due to rains, but it didn't look too dirty.  Mid tide so only big ones were OK, seemed kinda mushy, mostly lefts, but wedge rights were really fun.  Caught a fun left through the inside, too.  Surfed regular board, which went pretty well considering how the waves were a little soft.  Ended up having a really good time, waist to chest on the sets and was feeling my feet a bit.  Only about 4 guys out right in front of the river. Felt like summer. Hope I don't get sick!

Tuesday 3/22/2011

Went down to Trestles with Dianna and Erica. Never seen so much parking, NOT ONE CAR IN THE LOT.  I figured it must be horrible, but the sun was out, wind was kinda calm, and there had to be waves.  Got down there to clean, kinda crossed up head high lines, only 4 guys out at uppers. Ended up being sooo fun. First session was OK but second session was insane. Hung out at the end of the point BY MYSELF and caught a bunch of runners. Couldn't believe how many waves were coming in.  Was a little windswellish, but I didn't care with such a crowd. That wave is so fun, connected with a few rights that make you remember why you surf. Wind got on it by 2 and we were outta there. First time I've surfed that board at Trestles and it went just fine!

Saturday 3/19/2011

Stormy day, but we had pretty solid waves from the WNW. Cleaned the wax off the board and gave it a new spray so I was stoked to take it out.  Cam was still sleeping so I charged around 1 PM.  Low tide, gray skies, wind died down a bit, until I paddled out Northside. Only 1 other person out.  It was kinda solid, peaky head+ with decent rights, but the wind was killing it so fast.  Ended up drifting over to Southside for protection and caught some REALLY fun waves at Rob's peak. Made me remember why I surfed Southside so much years ago.  After about an hour, the tide switched or something and I stayed out too long.  Oh well, that hour window was soo fun with no one around.

Thursday 3/16/2011

Had so much fun yesterday figured I'd go back and give it another try.  Too bad the swell had dropped and the winds were straight onshore. There was no one out @ 36th, it still looked kinda fun, so I went for it. The tide was deep so it was mostly reforms. Caught about 50 crap waves and maybe  3 OK ones, but can't complain...no crowds and another good workout.  I'm getting a lot of miles out of my regular shortboard...haven't ridden it this many times in a row...ever!  The 5'8" is getting lonely!

Wednesday 3/16/2011

Really fun day.  Big swell, surfed 36th Newport.  Got there at high tide, almost looked like too much water, but I gave it a shot since the lower streets were PACKED.  Only 2 guys out when I paddled. Caught some really fun lefts and rights at first.  Really haven't surfed this spot that big, I don't think. Wedgy, overhead, long lefts, wedge rights.  As the tide dropped it got steeper and SO packed. The pro J Merle Jones paddled out and put on a clinic beside me. Surfed for quite a while and got some fun ones. Finally ended on the right I was hunting the whole session.  Nice to have a good session again, and a great workout.

Tuesday 3/15/2011

Surfed Newport around 39th street. Gray morning, looked kinda fun and clean, nice tide, but I surfed horrible.  Felt really heavy, almost dizzy.  There was no one out, just a couple guys b/n jetties.  About waist  high, windswellish. No real push. Couldn't get a decent wave, err, couldn't do anything decent on decent waves.  Mostly lefts, seemed to search for the right that never came. At least I got a work out. Felt good to get wet, though.

Sunday 3/13/2011

Sunday, the waves were a lot better than yesterday, sun was out, little bit smaller, but still had some size and looked so FUN. Watched it for about an hour and half from the beach with Cam while the girls were walking. So crowded in the AM, so I didn't really care. Got out there about 11, surfed out front. The tide was perfect, waves so fun, peaky, punchy, clean, but I just wasn't feeling it. Few fun ones, but never got in rhythm.  Soooo crowded for out front, saw a lot of rippers that only surf right next to the pier.  Still managed to get a couple though, beautiful day, can't complain.

Saturday 3/12/2011

Saturday, was kinda a stormy day but there were waves.   Surfed out front with Kevin around 11 or so.  The wind was starting to get on it but it still had size, and looked fun.  Turned out to be a lot of water moving with some good looking peaks, just hard to chase down.  Combo swell, mostly west, overhead, ended up catching a few really fun rip, medium sized rights that had a nice face. I think I caught like 3 lefts and kooked on all 3.  All in all, a good work out with a couple fun ones, and the crowd was gone by the time I got out there.