Friday 4/1/2011

Really good waves today. Worked all morning, went to a bunch of meetings and got a lot done. Saw on the cams it was still clean, so bailed and got in the water just after 2 PM. So clean, surfed out front. HOt day, beach was packed, but not many people surfing. Kinda solid, head high, peaky lines.  Paddled out at dead low tide, which was nice cause it was still a little mushy, so it made it stand up a bit. Got some really fun rights and lefts.  Water was soooo warm, gotta be 5 degrees warmer than yesterday.  All in all, great success, so lucky to have such great conditions on an afternoon with hardly anyone out.